At midday, after a two-hour wait for crates of bottled water and vats of petrol to load, the horn blows and the ferry slowly chugs away from the port at Kingstown, the capital of St Vincent and the Grenadines.

How did it come to pass that twenty years after neoconservatives launched their ‘war on terror’, self-proclaimed Muslim leaders were queuing up to ingratiate themselves to a mainstreamed far-right headed by Donald Trump?

It was end of July, and I was headed along the coast of Trinidad on the Buccoo Reef, a passenger vessel that bore the name of the fishing village in which my father was born and to which, once we dropped anchor in Tobago, I would journey.

Long before the French came here, the Cap-Vert peninsula – on which Dakar, the capital of Senegal sits – belonged to the Lebu people.